Cost of Car Gas Expenses Comparison

Everyone pays attention to what the local gas stations/convenience stores are charging in their area, would be foolish NOT to do that. I ended up in a conversation with a friend about it, but had to use a spreadsheet to explain it as one of darn "math word problems." Here it is (and my results).

Math Problem
Bob drives a company car that gets 30 miles per gallon. He drives 36 miles per day Monday through Friday, to and from work. He passes a station on the way both ways, that is currently charging $3.75 per gallon. He heard about another station that is 2 miles past his office that is charging $3.72 per gallon. He decides on his lunch hour, to go there and fill up. How much did he save?

Solution
He didn't, it cost him $0.21 more. WHAT?!? HOW?!? Using the same 30 MPG car at each station it breaks down like this:

• Stopping at the station on the way home from work, that day he drove 36 miles
• Cost of gas per gallon is $3.75, cost per mile is $0.125 ($ per gallon / 30 mpg)
• Cost of the daily drive (cost per mile X miles) = $4.50
• Going to the station that was farther from work, that day he drove 38 miles
• 2 miles back, plus the 36 to and from work
• Only added 2 miles to get back from the station because he used his existing gas to get there in the first place. 
• Cost per gallon of gas is $3.72, cost per mile is $0.124 ($ per gallon / 30 mpg)
• Cost of the daily drive (cost per mile X miles) = $4.71
• Savings? Loss of $0.21

Summary
So, financially he lost $0.21 that day, but expand it to a monthly comparison. Same company car, same stations, Monday through Friday mileage, same cost per gallon.

• Stopping at the station on the way home from work, that month he drove 720 miles
• 36 miles per day X 5 days per week X 4 weeks in the month
• Cost of gas per gallon is $3.75, cost per mile is $0.125 ($ per gallon / 30 mpg)
• Cost of the monthly drive (cost per mile X miles) = $90.00
• Going to the station that was farther from work, that month he drove 800 miles
• Cost per gallon of gas is $3.72, cost per mile is $0.124 ($ per gallon / 30 mpg)
• Cost of the monthly drive (cost per mile X miles) = $99.20
• Savings? Loss of $9.20

So, if that continued for 12 months, loss of $110.40. All because Bob went an extra 4 miles per fill up each week. The additional miles driven would require more fill ups, so it offsets the "savings" by being 3 cents less expensive. If Bob has to fill up more often, the station sells more gas, which means they better the bottom line (profit). Plus you are likely to run into the station to grab an item that you want (a coffee, pop/soda, smokes, etc.) So they DOUBLE profit from you. But that is another blog entry related to this.

I admire business managers for figuring out how to better the bottom line by combining several profit revenues together, and blending it with marketing. Shows that business people are finally waking up on how to better the ROI.

I'm just trying to share with everyone what you need to "consider" on where you go to purchase what you need and better your wallet...

Distracted Driving

I was recently walking my 2 dogs in my neighborhood, stepped off the road into a driveway, had to crouch down between an approaching car and my dogs to protect them, when she drifted off the road and hit me. She was reading a text message on her smartphone at the time, and "didn't see us." I ended up with some hip injuries, but at least my dogs were okay.

I thought about how things have changed since I started driving almost 30 years ago. Cars back then were lucky to have even an AM radio and that the locks, windows, and everything were MANUAL to use. Now? They are so digitally involved that you can't POSSIBLY process it all mentally. DRIVE. Now to step down from my soapbox, here are some facts about distracted driving.

Most American culture is focused right now on how "distracted driving" is related only to texting, but guess what? There are a LOT of things that are considered distracted driving. Things like:

• Eating and drinking (I see this all the time)
• Grooming (applying makeup or even shaving)
• Reading, including maps
• Using a navigation/GPS system (which is why I don't have one)
• Watching a video
• Adjusting a radio, CD player, or MP3 player
• Using a cell phone or smartphone, even hands-free/Bluetooth
• Texting

Distracted driving can be classified in 3 ways; visual (taking your eyes off of the road), manual (taking your hands off of the steering wheel), and cognitive (using your mind for something other than driving). Whenever you do any of the above, you run the risk 23 times more likely that you will be involved in an accident. Simply reading a text means your eyes are off of the road for approximately 5 seconds. At a speed of 55 mph, that is equal to driving the distance of a football field while blindfolded. How safe is that?

Add to it, that most states in the US have laws about distracted drivers. There are different ones for adults and minors. Some are considered primary and some are considered secondary. Some states even ban the use of a cellphone at all. I suggest you go over to the Distraction.gov website and find out what the laws are in your area. Click HERE for direct link to the state law page.

Drive safe...stop distracting yourself from those around you...

Distracted Driving

One of the hottest topics going around is "distracted driving," especially in the state where I am, Ohio. While they took a little longer to pass statewide legislation about it (39th), it has been hotly discussed. Effective September 1, 2012 we have laws on the books about distracted driving. And yes, it applies to everyone on the roads in the state, even if you are from a different one, just visiting or passing through.

The Ohio ban on distracted is best simply explained as:

• Statewide on text messaging by all drivers (sending or reading).
• Drivers under the age of 18, use of all portable electronic devices prohibited.

Basically what this translate into, as an adult, if pulled over for another violation, they can add this to the ticket as a fee on top of the original ticket (about $150). Like how the first seat belt act was passed before "Click It or Ticket," they couldn't pull you over for that unless you did something else first (reckless driving, speeding, blowing a stop sign or stop light, etc.). If you are under 18, it means $150 and a 60-day suspension of license. For teens with multiple violations, fines max out at $300 with possible loss of driver’s license for a year.

Now, that sounds simple, but you need to keep a few things in mind. They aren't just talking about distracted driving due to texting. Some municipalities, cities, and counties also specify that the use of a DVD player in the front seat, using a touch-screen GPS, eating, drinking, applying makeup, shaving, brushing your teeth, changing the CD player, iPod or radio, and even a hands-free call as distracted driving.  The local law can override the state law. The state law is the MINIMUM, the local ones are the MAXIMUM.

So, my suggestions? Spend a few minutes online to research what laws apply to where you live, but also where you might travel for vacation or work. And, please, keep your hands on the steering wheel and check your mirrors every 30 seconds. Get a "ride buddy" to do all the work you need done while focusing on the road in front, behind, and beside you. Pull over to take a phone call, answer a text, or check your email.

You Are Driving Wrong - Part II - Steering Methods

In the Part I - Hand Placement of the You Are Driving Wrong series, I discussed where your hands should be placed (9 and 3, not 10 and 2) [link]. This follow up is about 3 steering methods and when to use each type. I'm going to summarize what is on the NHTSA document about Using Efficient Steering Techniques [PDF].

Push/pull Steering - Preferred method

• Left hand is between 7 and 8 o’clock, right hand between 4 and 5 o’clock.

• Depending on the direction of the turn, right or left hand pushes the wheel up and the opposite hand slides up, and pulls down.

• Pulling hand moves down, the other hand returns to the its original position.

• Reverse the process to bring the vehicle back to the desired path.
• Hands never cross over the steering wheel, so there is less chance of an injury to the face, hands or arms from an air bag in the event of a crash.

Hand-over-Hand Steering:

• Use when turning at low speeds with limited visibility at an intersection, when parking, or recovering from a skid.
• Left hand grasps the wheel between 8 and 9 o’clock and right hand between 3 and 4 o’clock.

• Depending on the direction of the turn, use the right top third of the wheel to move it to the right and use the left top third of the wheel to move it to the left.

• One hand grasps the wheel and pushes up, the opposite hand lets go, reaches across the other arm, grasps the wheel and pulls the wheel up, over and down.

• As wheel is pulled up, the hand that initiated the pushing motion releases the wheel and returns to its original position.
• Simply reverse the hand-over-hand process to bring the vehicle into your intended path. 

One Hand Steering:

• Use one hand steering when backing or operating vehicle controls (wipers, flashers, lights, etc).
• The placement of one hand on the steering wheel is critical to vehicle balance, steering reversals, and potential injury.
• When reaching for an operating control,  keep the other hand in the normal position of 8-9 o’clock or 3-4 o’clock, depending on steering wheel design.
• One hand at 12 o’clock is only recommended when backing up and the driver turns in the seat in order to see to the rear.
• The way the wheel is turned when backing is the direction the vehicle will move to the rear. 

You Are Driving Wrong - Part I - Hand Placement

I'm not a golfer, but after spending so much time with my grandfather as his caddy and what he taught me about driving, I would be remiss to not share "how times change." Under his tutelage, I learned what a driver was to a golfer, but also what a driver (of a vehicle) was as a person. As I prepare to become a mentor to a driver in a few years, I decided to do some "research" about tutoring them. I discovered that I have a lot to teach, but that I'm also doing it wrong myself. I'll cover the point of my entry first, and then add my personal comments.

"Back in the day," I was taught to put my hands at 10 and 2. Meaning, one hand at 10 o'clock and the other at 2 o'clock. It worked with the steering wheel in front of me that would get me home safely every night. But guess what....times changes. Why? Mainly because steering wheels have changed. Now, I need to put my hands at 9 and 3, as explained in a National Highway Traffic Safety Association (NHTSA) document [PDF]. I suggest you download the document and share it with anyone that you are mentoring behind the wheel.

Image from the MSNBC report site

Okay, your question is "why," but that is because times changes, so have steering wheels. Most steering wheels now contain air bags that deploy when you are in an accident. If it deploys and your hands are at 10 & 2, your arms will be blocking the safety of the bag and they will be forced backwards towards your head. According to a report on MSNBC, the bags inflate at a speed of 150-250 mph. And to quote the report:

Among the injuries the NHTSA reports from improper placement of the hands when an airbag deploys are amputations of fingers or entire hands, traumatic fractures and a particularly stomach-churning injury called "degloving," which — trust us — you definitely don't want to look up.

The bag can also slam your hands directly into your head, causing broken noses and concussions.

Yeah, I'm thinking I don't want to run the risk of any of that happening to my arms and hands. Being in an accident isn't always because YOU did something wrong, it could happen because SOMEONE ELSE caused it. So, in trying to look out for myself, I'm going to start moving my hands to the 9 and 3 position instead of the "old skool" 10 and 2. Not to mention that I've already had a TBI (see related links on the Misc / Brain Dump page) and do NOT want to cause a concussion.

In preparing to mentor a future driver, I've learned some things myself... In fact, Part II of this series will be about how to turn the wheel. Yeah, that's changed too.

Sub / Hoagie / Grinder / Po' Boy Sandwiches

Po'-boy, from Parkway Bakery, New Orleans.
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The other day I pulled into a TA truck stop to get gas. It was lunch time and I had some time to kill, so I decided to go in to browse and have lunch at Popeye's (since I hadn't eaten there yet). I stared at the menu and immediately decided that it was time to have my first po' boy. I ordered a spicy dressed fried chicken po' boy, Cajun fries and biscuit.

I had heard about them before, but I grew up in the Northeastern U.S., so I was brought up on "subs," " grinders," "hoagies," "Philly cheese steaks," "heroes," "zeps," "blimpies." Reading the history of a "po' boy" on the back of the wrapper is what led me to do a little surfing to find out what the "differences" were since they seemed the same to me. I will say, that having been to a Popeye's for a po' boy, I WILL be going there as often as possible.

The best explanations I am sharing come from Wikipedia for a Po' Boy and Submarine. I'm not going to bore you with all of the details. For more information, click on the links for each.

They all began appearing on menus in the late 1800s and early 1900s across the U.S. The Italian culture brought them to the Northeastern U.S., and Louisiana brought the po' boy around 1920 (due to a street car strike). Regardless of the "reasons" they are so yummy, I'm just glad that they exist. I have a pizzeria and a Subway less than a mile away. The only real difference is what is put on or in them and the spices used...

It also brings to mind a sandwich that I ate a lot of in Pittsburgh, PA from Primanti Bros.  The original location was in the Strip District, which is where a lot of things happened. The Primanti Bothers started in the 1930s to provide a meal for the produce truck drivers that needed a complete meal, all in one. They make their sandwiches with the main entree (steak, eggs), french fries, cole slaw, and tomatoes all between 2 slices of Italian bread. A trucker could make his delivery to the Strip, grab a meal, and be back on the road in no time. All for a decent price. Sigh...the memories of finding a place to eat after a long evening of being out... but I digress...

A key point that I learned from doing this surfing, is that if you are going to make your own sub / hoagie / po' boy, putting a layer of cheese on the bottom, then the meat, and then another layer of cheese helps prevent the bread from getting soggy...good to know. Maybe that is why a true Philly Cheese steak has so much cheese folded into it. Happy eating...

Driving & Mirrors

I've made several entries about driving because I do a LOT of it, have been doing it for over 20 years, but love learning new things, and just want to share with you. Click the Driving Advice tab at the top to see some of my driving related entries. This one is about how to adjust your mirrors properly according to the Blindspot and Glare Elimination (BGE) settings to be able to drive more safely. Rather than re-write what has already been done, I am using the entry on the Driver's Ed Guru website as my reference. I'm summarizing that info here, but please do visit their website for more information about the BGE settings. Yeah, they even have a video you can watch...but I have it here too...

The Blindspot and Glare Elimination (BGE) mirror setting was developed in 1996 by a member of the Society of Automotive Engineers named George Platzer. The BGE setting reduces the usual two large blindspots to four mini blindzones. None of these four mini blindzones are large enough to completely hide a car.

There are several advantages to the BGE setting:

• You no longer have to turn your head to look into the blindzones.
• Only a brief glance at the side mirror and inside mirror is needed.
• By glancing at the mirror, you keep the road ahead in your peripheral vision. Turning your head completely eliminates the road ahead from your field of vision.
• Glare from the side mirrors is almost entirely eliminated. You should no longer have a trailing car’s headlights shine directly into your eyes.

This is how to set up the BGE setting:

• Place your head against the driver’s side window and adjust the driver’s side mirror so you can barely see the driver’s side of your car.
• Move your head as close to the center of the car as possible and adjust the passenger’s side mirror so you can barely see the passenger’s side of your car.
• To check your BGE settings, watch as a car passes you in an adjacent lane. It should enter your outside mirror before it leaves the rearview (inside) mirror. Also, the car should appear in your peripheral vision before it leaves the outside mirror.
• Remember, your inside rearview mirror is your primary mirror and it will take time to get accustomed to no longer seeing the sides of your car in the side mirrors.

As a personal note, I will ALWAYS use the shoulder look to confirm what I might see, even though their bullet point above says I don't have to. Sorry, been doing it for so long that I will still do it. But, employing this information means that I don't run the risk of sitting in a body shop any more than I need to...

Drive safe...

Night Driving II

This is the second entry I've made about driving at night (refer to Night Driving for a good start). But this one is based on a lot of driving I've done in the last few weeks on the highway and on local streets. The concepts are the same. And a key point that nearly EVERYONE has forgotten, is that driving is a PRIVILEGE, not a RIGHT. Which means, there are some basic things that every driver needs to be aware of to keep their license.

Image via Wikipedia

My first point is about headlights. This is a follow up to another entry I made about asking people to understand when to use their headlights click [HERE]. In that entry, I ask drivers to please consider when they turn on their lights. Today I am going to ask drivers to be aware of some BASIC driving concepts about headlights.


✔ If we are driving on hilly terrain, please don't flash me your high beams because sometimes our lights will be directly in each others' eyes simply because of where we are in relationship to each other. You flashing instantly blinds me for a few seconds, and there isn't much I can do about it, except flash you back, and blind you too. That isn't safe for either of us as we approach each other at ANY speed, let alone above 55 mph.

✔ When driving on an interstate or highway, even if there is a grassy median between us, you going south when I'm going north, and you have high beams on, will still blind me, especially on hilly terrain or going around bends. Have you figured out why there are green posts on concrete medians when we are closer together? Yeah, your lights still blind me and make it unsafe for those around us no matter how much distance separates us if there are not hills, trees, or posts to break up your high beams.

 ✔ If you are driving in a coupe or sedan, and I am driving in a medium sized SUV (like the Toyota Highlander), do not flash me, you are riding lower than me so my lights are going to hit your eyes because YOU chose a lower body style to drive. Also applies to all of the people that lower the driver seat as low as possible or recline it back more.

Image via Wikipedia

✔ Headlight technology is changing. Halogens are on the way out, while Xenon and LEDs are on the way in. If I spend money to get the best bulbs I can for my vehicle, don't assume that I am leaving my high beams on (I NEVER turn them on), it is just that my bulbs are brighter than yours. Again, flashing me will only blind me and make it temporary blind to my environments.

✔ Flashing your headlights at me can be interpreted as "aggressive driving," and yes, you can be pulled over, ticketed, and fined for doing that in several states. I leave it to YOU to find out which ones.

Okay, enough ranting about headlights at night. How about my other two points related to turning. Even though that is a basic concept, a majority of drivers out there today never truly learned it, or they just don't care about others.

✔ All vehicles come with 4 little lights on them (including motorcycles). 2 in the front and 2 in the back, 2 on the right, 2 on the left. They are all controlled by a little rod or button that sticks out of your steering column/handlebar, at your fingertips. The purpose is so I don't have to depend on my telepathic ability to figure out what the Hell you are going to do. How about actually USING them to let me know? Both during the day, and at especially at night.

✔ That applies not only to when you are turning from one road onto another, it applies to most driving laws to when you are simply changing lanes on a multi lane road. Yeah, you should check your local BMV/DMV driving codes to see what is expected of you there. I've been pulled over & ticketed for failing to indicate a lane change. Why? Because I now understand how unsafe that is for those around me.


✔ When did "drift turning" become acceptable? By this I mean when you approach an intersection, and don't make a legal 90 degree turn onto that road, but you drift across my turning lane and double yellow line (on the road you are entering) at a 45 degree angle, and give ME a dirty look because I was in the turning lane? Oh, right, it is either because you don't care or your stop light actually was RED when you were trying to skate drift through it to get to your destination 30 seconds earlier.


✔ When did driving on a side street to make a turn at night, you, AS A DRIVER, need to be aware of what is going on around you. Just because you come to an intersection and can turn without a stop sign, you still need to use the turn signals, and be aware of what people and dogs may be walking in that area. Remember, pedestrians have the right of way, the driver does not. Using the turn signals indicates to the non-telepathic pedestrians that you intend to turn (so maybe they'll stop their steps to avoid being hit) AND you need to be aware of the fact that there may be pedestrians in your neighborhood that you really don't want to be held responsible for hitting. Because yes, it WOULD be your fault. This happened recently to some friends of mine and their 2 dogs. If the driver had hit them, I would have hunted them down and made them remember each and every moment of the suffering the caused, simply because they didn't use their turn signals and didn't pay attention to what was going on around them as a driver.

Okay, maybe that is enough of a rant. A better summary of this entry is that we are all facing a lot more distracted driving today. Please go back to the BASICS that we were all taught in driving classes about headlights, turning signals, turning, and awareness to make things safer again...oh yeah, and learn what the LAWS of driving actually are in your area...

Winter Driving Preparedness & Safety

I was doing some research for a post about driving in the winter & general recommendations for vehicle preparedness to accompany my Night Driving and Headlights When Driving posts. I came across all of the info I was drafting on Wunderground.com. Rather than re-write it, I've linked directly to it and just copied & pasted the content here.

Winter weather driving can be a challenge for even the most experienced drivers. Use these tips to help you drive safely during the winter season.

Car Maintenance

Make sure to prepare your vehicle before the winter season begins. The following handy steps will help you ensure that your vehicle is safe to drive during winter weather.

1. Check your brakes and tires.

1. Check for wear and fluid levels of brakes.
2. Make sure the tires have adequate tread - minimum tread is 1/16" for adequate traction. All-weather radials are usually adequate for most winter conditions. However, some jurisdictions require that to drive on their roads, vehicles must be equipped with chains or snow tires with studs.
2. Check that your battery and ignition system is in top condition, and that battery terminals are clean.
3. Check radiator coolant and sturdiness of hoses and belts.
4. Check your anti-freeze and thermostat. Ensure that they are sufficient to avoid freezing.
5. Check your windshield wipers and de-icing washer fluid. Keep spare window washer fluid in the trunk and make sure the washer blades are in good working condition.
6. Check your headlights, tail and brake lights, blinkers and emergency flasher.
7. Check your exhaust system, heater and defroster.
1. Check for leaks and crimped pipes and repair or replace as necessary. Carbon monoxide is deadly and usually gives no warning.
2. Ensure that your heater and defroster work properly.
8. Check fuel and air filters. Replace and keep water out of the system by using additives and maintaining a full tank of gas.
9. Check your oil. Refer to the vehicle's manual to see if a lighter grade oil is recommended for winter driving. Heavier oils tend to congeal at low temperatures and do not lubricate as well.
10. Properly lubricate door locks that may be prone to freezing.

Driving Safety

1. Before beginning your trip, check the current road conditions and weather forecast. For statewide highway information 24 hours a day checkout your state's Department of Transportation. For the best weather information all day everyday, check out wunderground.com
2. Keep your car's windows, mirrors and lights clear of snow and ice.
3. Always wear your seat belt.
4. Leave a few minutes early.
5. Start out slowly in the lowest gear recommended by your vehicle's manufacturer.
6. When accelerating on snow or ice, take it slow to avoid slipping and sliding.
7. Be aware of sleet and freezing rain.
8. Be aware of potentially icy areas, such as shady spots and bridges.
9. Brake early, brake slowly, brake correctly, and never slam on the brakes.
1. If you have anti-lock brakes, press the pedal down firmly and hold it.
2. If you don't have anti-lock brakes, gently pump the pedal.
3. Either way, give yourself plenty of room to stop.
10. Keep a safe distance of at least five seconds behind other vehicles and trucks that are plowing the road.
11. When driving on ice and snow, do not use cruise control and avoid abrupt steering maneuvers. When merging into traffic, take it slow. Sudden movements can cause your vehicle to slide.
12. Don't pass a snowplow or spreader unless it is absolutely necessary. Treat these as you would emergency response vehicles.
13. Keep an emergency winter driving kit in your car.
14. Maintain at least a half tank of gas during the winter season. This is good for emergency preparedness and it keeps the fuel line from freezing.
15. Most importantly, drive smart!

Night Driving

Driving at night in rain or snow storm really is challenging, to say the least. Not only does the weather diminish your ability to see in front of you, but so do the headlights of cars coming the other way. They are almost BLINDING as they reflect directly into your eyes. A couple of tips about driving at night can be found at Road & Travel Magazine and the NYS DMV driver's manual, but I'm sharing the best tips.

• When another car is approaching, look to the right (by checking the passenger side mirror or looking at the line on the side of the road)
• Dim your dashboard lights as low as possible

You are "supposed" to check all of your mirrors every few moments so you are aware of what is going on behind or beside you. Diverting your eyes to the right when a car is coming the other way, you save your eyes from reacting to the amount of light that is impacting them, so when you return them to the front, they don't have to "readjust."

Dimming your dashboard lights reduces the amount of light impacting your eyes. When driving, especially at twilight, you rely on your peripheral vision. The dashboard dials impact that. By dimming them, you can SEE them when you are checking the speedometer, clock, or radio station, but they won't distract your peripheral sight while you are actually looking at the road in front of you.

'77 VW Rabbit

I learned this trick from my grandfather decades ago when he let me drive his car (a '77 Volkswagen Rabbit). He shared this with me because he learned it by being a belly gunner on a B-17 Flying Fortress during World War II. They dimmed the lights on the plane (cockpit & belly gun controls) when they flew at night so they could see out of the windows better, achieve the mission that they were on, and spot the enemy faster. Hmm...that makes sense. Driving a car is not about being the first to cause an accident, but about being the first to spot a situation that you can AVOID.

B17 Flying Fortress

I learned a LOT from my grandfather about life in general, but I still adhere to the tip of dimming my dash lights and look forward to passing this advice on to my son when he starts driving too.

I wish that my Toyota Highlander had a belly gun... sometimes other drivers piss me off.